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BonsallThe major tourist towns and attractions of the Peak District are, rightly, well-known and much praised. One of the greatest delights about this alluring part of England, however, is the way that even little heard-of places can offer the visitor so much in the way of history and contemporary appeal. Take the ancient village of Bonsall, as a perfect example. Of the 50 million visitor days spent in the Peaks each year, few of them, I suggest, will be taken in Bonsall, just one mile east of Matlock Bath and north of Cromford. But those visitors who don’t go there, will miss a little gem For it was in Bonsall that the pioneering cottage industry of frame-knitting was established (visitors get a clue about this when they see the characteristic long windows, designed to let in as much light as possible). In addition, the village has enjoyed the reputation of being the healthiest place in England in which to live – mainly because of the 450 foot climb from one end of the village to the other – and is additionally a hotbed for U.F.O. enthusiasts. All this, and home of the Annual Derbyshire Open Hen Racing Championships! The meandering shape of Bonsall is entirely due to the course of Bonsall Brook, whose force was first harnessed by Arkwright to power his Cromford factory in 1771. From the highest point of Uppertown, all the way down to what used to be the Pig of Lead pub at the bottom, small groups of cottages make for an attractive walk down. The thirteenth century parish church of Saint James, with its proud position overseeing the village; the Elizabethan manor House in High Street and the seventeenth century King’s Head Inn are arguably the most obviously attractive buildings. The market cross, where none other than John Wesley himself is known to have preached, is, justifiably, a frequent target for photographers. Amazingly, though – although perhaps not amazingly for a village with the idiosyncrasies of Bonsall – it is the telephone kiosk outside the Barley Mow pub which is of especial architectural significance. This ‘listed building’ – I kid you not – was designed by the same man, Sir Giles Gilbert Scott, who was responsible for Waterloo Bridge, Liverpool Cathedral and Battersea Power Station. The aforementioned Barley Mow Public House is part of the reason for the U.F.O. reference earlier. A few years ago there was a spate of sightings in the vicinity of Bonsall and there is a steady stream of devotees who try to decipher the mysteries. Even if you’re sceptical, you’ll still appreciate the pub’s balcony on a sunny summer evening – especially when you know this is a former CAMRA ‘Pub of the Year’ winner. There are some delightful walks to be found around the village. Some picturesque paths take you up into the surrounding hills for views over the Derwent Valley or Riber Castle and you’re quite close to the cable car at the Heights of Abraham, which can provide a breathtaking trip down to Matlock Bath. Bonsall is a quintessential English village. However, with its well dressing, its links with traditional mill industries and its relationship with the limestone hills surrounding it, it is also unequivocally a proud part of the Peak District National Park. |
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